Simon Rogan is on a winning streak. Just look at his legendary Lake District restaurant L’Enclume, which is one of only 10 in the UK to take home three Michelin Stars (plus one Green). Now, for the seventh year on the trot, Rogan is taking the reins at Royal Ascot’s Parade Ring Restaurant, bringing his frontrunning farm-to-fork finesse to the finish line.
But he’s not the only culinary contender in the running this year. Ascot is setting a (track) record as the world’s most Michelin-starred sporting event, with a line-up of chefs who collectively hold a constellation of 29 stars – from Raymond Blanc to Tom Barnes. So, ahead of race week, we caught up with one of its Michelin maestros to talk menus, farm-fresh ingredients, and where to feast during the five-day meet.
This is your seventh year at Royal Ascot. What keeps you coming back, and what makes this event so special for you?
There’s nothing quite like Royal Ascot – it's such a quintessentially British event, full of so much history and tradition. It’s a special place, and when we come back every summer, it feels like returning home. There’s a great community; we know the team so well, and we feel truly taken care of. Most importantly, we receive a fantastic response from the Royal Ascot guests, many of whom return year after year and are really excited about their experience with us.
The Parade Ring Restaurant will serve a five-course à la carte lunch. What dishes can guests look forward to this year?
We always strive to improve the menu each year, and this time I’m really looking forward to our guests’ reactions to dishes like West Coast mackerel cured in horseradish, topped with oyster cream, crispy kale leaves, and perilla vinegar. For dessert, there’s a buttermilk custard with assorted strawberries, anise hyssop, and fig. Not forgetting all the little appetisers – lobster crackers pickled in golden beetroot with our own caviar blend, Corria Linn doughnuts, and fried Anya potatoes with tomato molasses, lovage, and Our Farm’s soft Anyesome spring shoots. All absolutely delicious.
For over two decades, L’Enclume has used ingredients freshly picked from your farm in the Cartmel Valley. How will your signature farm-to-fork philosophy feature on the Parade Ring Restaurant menu?
We’ll be using as many ingredients from Our Farm as possible – every dish takes direct inspiration from the farm and makes the most of what’s in season at the time. We draw a lot of influence from the surrounding landscape of Carmel in the Lake District – home to L’Enclume, Aulis, and Rogan & Co. Each dish reflects our signature style.
'There’s nothing quite like Royal Ascot ... it feels like returning home.'
– Simon Rogan
Speaking of ingredients, is there one from your farm on this year’s menu that you’re particularly excited about – or that guests might not expect?
I don’t really have a particular favourite – I'm always excited about all the produce we bring down. This year, more than ever, as we’ve invested heavily over the winter to improve our facilities, the quality and productivity are going to be on another level. I think the broad beans, peas, brassicas, and strawberries will be pretty special – but then I could say that about all of it. I just can’t wait to share them.
Finally, this year’s Royal Ascot is the world’s most Michelin-starred sporting event ever. Apart from the Parade Ring Restaurant, where else should we make a reservation and why?
It’s such as honour to be amongst such a great line-up of chefs – as we are every year. Of course, I can’t not mention Tom Barnes, who worked alongside me for many years at L’Enclume and, just over a year ago, opened a restaurant of his own in Manchester, SKOF, which won a Michelin star earlier this year. He’s such a talent, and it’s amazing to see his solo venture doing so well – I'd love to see people supporting his restaurant at Royal Ascot. I’ll certainly be booking myself a seat.
