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Travel

Where to stay and hike in Upstate New York

As autumn approaches, lace up your hiking boots and head to one of these seven properties in Hudson Valley and the Catskills.

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Words by Devorah Lev-Tov

5-minute read

Full fall foliage immersion is a tried-and-true New York pastime. But whilst there are plenty of leaves to be seen in the city’s parks, heading north a few clicks quickly brings vast forests bathed in reds, golds, and oranges into view. For a nature-filled autumn excursion, head to the Catskill Mountains and adjacent Hudson Valley and select one of the newer luxe hotels that have opened over the last few years. Then, pair your stay with a nearby hike through one of the thousands of miles of trails in the area. Just be sure to pack your hiking boots! 

The Henson to Mountain Top Arboretum 

The hotel... This charming 16-room hotel opened earlier this year in Windham, a small village in the heart of the Catskill Mountains. A collaboration between celebrated New York City chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske Valtierra – the duo behind Manhattan restaurants Bar Contra and Wildair – and Ely and Danielle Franko, founders of design-forward home rentals the Hunter Houses, means there’s an excellent restaurant (Matilda) and chic interiors inspired by the 159-year-old structure and lush natural surroundings. 

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(L) The Henson | (R) Mountain Top Arboretum

The hike... A public garden with a mountain top elevation of 2,400 feet, this arboretum, about 8.5 mi/13.6 km away from the Henson, has well-maintained trails and boardwalks that connect 200 acres of plant collections, meadows, wetlands, forest, and Devonian bedrock that visitors can walk through. The trails are generally easy and flat – plant and tree lovers will be in heaven here. 

The Rounds at Scribner’s Catskill Lodge to Kaaterskill Falls 

The hotel... Scribner’s has been a Catskills favourite since 2016 – it was one of the first modern hotels to open in the region. Earlier this year, it added 11 round, shingled cabins to the upper part of the property, each featuring sunken circular sofas, outdoor cedar soaking tubs, fireplaces, and a central oculus for optimal stargazing right from your cabin. Guests can hang out in the Apex Lounge with other Rounds guests, or head down to the main part of Scribner’s, with its outdoor pool, barrel sauna, and Prospect restaurant.  

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(L) The Rounds at Scribner’s Catskill Lodge | (R) Kaaterskill Falls

The hike... Kaaterskill Falls, about a 15-minute drive from Scribner’s, is one of the region’s most well-known waterfalls. And at 260 feet, it’s an impressive one, too, with water gushing down a rock face surrounded trees. You’ll first see a vista over the falls, before the 1.5 mi/2.4 km trail takes you down to the bottom of the falls via stairs. The loop is fairly easy, but some rocks can be slippery near the falls, and you need to be able to climb up and down the stairs. In winter, be aware of mud and ice.

The Maker Hotel to Olana State Historic Site 

The hotel... This 11-room hotel from the co-founders of skincare and beauty brand Fresh is housed across three historical buildings in the centre of Hudson, which has some of the region’s best shopping and restaurants. Each unique room mingles influences from different design periods, including La Belle Époque, Art Deco, and Mid-Century Modern. For example, the Artist Studio displays eclectic artwork, has a fireplace made from restored antique furniture pieces, and a vintage painting easel. The hotel also has a café, cocktail lounge, restaurant, library, circus-themed fitness centre, and outdoor pool.  

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(L) The Maker Hotel | (R) Olana State Historic Site

The hike... Olana is 250-acre estate built by Frederic Edwin Church, a major figure in the Hudson River School of painting. The castle-style home is surrounded by gorgeous, landscaped gardens that Church designed carriage trails to traipse through, making for an easy hike through the grounds. And, whilst you can easily drive to the house, you can also hike up through the grounds from the parking lot next to the Rip Van Winkle Bridge, or from the Hudson River Skywalk – a beautiful way to see the Hudson River.  

Wildflower Farms, Auberge Resorts Collection to Minnewaska State Park Preserve 

The hotel... Wildflower Farms’ 65 cottages are set amongst 140 acres of gloriously rural countryside. The spacious cottages have floor-to-ceiling windows looking over a meadow, and there’s also an on-property farm, a 9,000-square-foot spa with an indoor saltwater pool, an outdoor swimming pool and spa tub with views of the Shawangunk Mountains, an open-air fitness centre and yoga studio, and a restaurant with an open kitchen that makes use of the produce grown on-site. Foraging and farming experiences, cooking and pickling classes, and the resort’s own three miles of walking trails keep guests busy. 

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(L) Wildflower Farms, Auberge Resorts Collection | (R) Minnewaska State Park Preserve

The hike...Surrounded by the breathtaking Shawangunk Mountains and 25,000 acres of pristine, preserved wilderness, Minnewaska State Park has waterfalls, three pristine lakes, and several trails of varying levels to choose from – and it’s just 15 minutes away from Wildflower. If you’re an intermediate or advanced hiker, consider tackling the strenuous hike to Gertrude’s Nose. The 6.9 mi/11.1 km loop traverses numerous overlooks, cliff edges, and rock formations, but the final sweeping vista from the outcropping of Gertrude’s Nose presents an incredible view of the Hudson Valley.  

INNESS to Black Creek Preserve 

The hotel... Opened in summer 2021, INNESS is a small boutique resort tucked on a sprawling 225-acre property that includes a stylish, 12-room farmhouse inn and 28 standalone minimalist cabins with fireplaces that the staff will gladly come light for you. The hotel also has a nine-hole golf course designed by King Collins Golf, two tennis courts, two pools, a shop stocked with design-centric home goods and locally made food, and a restaurant focused on using local and seasonal ingredients. A spa and wellness programs are set to launch this autumn. 

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(L) INNESS | (R) Black Creek Preserve

The hike... A 30-minute drive east will bring you to Esopus, just along the Hudson River. The Black Creek Preserve loop trail ambles along 2.1 mi/3.3 km of the river, surrounded by 130 acres of woodland that turns gorgeous colours in autumn. A highlight is traipsing across the suspension bridge over Black Creek – keep your eyes out for bald eagles (really). 

The Villa at Saugerties to Overlook Mountain Trail 

The hotel...With just four rooms, this meticulously designed haven makes you feel right at home. Situated on 3.6 acres, the Villa at Saugerties boasts reclaimed barn beams, European and Moroccan antiques, and modern textiles. The common room has a wood-burning fireplace, wooden Scrabble board, and inviting couches, whilst guest rooms have beds clad in Matteo linens and spacious bathrooms with radiant heated floors. Some rooms have their own fireplaces, extra-deep soaking tubs, and private patios for ogling the leaves. 

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(L) The Villa at Saugerties | (R) Overlook Mountain Trail

The hike... About a 20-minute drive away, this 4.6 mi/7.4 km trail is a popular hike that’s classified as easy-to-moderate, with an elevation of 1,398 feet. About two miles in, you’ll arrive at the photogenic, moss-covered stone remains of Overlook Mountain House. Continue on, and you’ll discover a 60-foot fire tower at the summit. And whilst the views from the nearby vista are already pretty spectacular, especially in their autumn splendour, fire tower climbers are rewarded with panoramic views that reach six states. 

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