We very rarely refer to restaurants – or anything, for that matter – as iconic. But when it comes to The Ritz, which, for over a century has had tailcoat-clad waiters whizzing between white tablecloths, we’ll make an exception. This two-Michelin-starred restaurant might be known for serving one of London’s best afternoon teas, but we had a jolly good chinwag with Head Chef Deepak Mallya about more than cucumber sandwiches.
Where did your love of cooking begin and what inspired you to pursue a career in the kitchen?
I’ve always loved to eat... but never had any aspiration to become a chef. When I started as a luggage porter at 14 in a hotel in Bournemouth, my desire was to be a hotel manager. When I turned 17, I made the move to the kitchen as a pot washer and kitchen assistant, and it was there that my love for the kitchen began. The camaraderie, the rush, and the atmosphere were things I quickly fell in love with.
Over the last 14 years, you've worked your way up from apprentice to head chef. How has that journey shaped your leadership style – and how has it influenced the way you lead a team of nearly 70 chefs today?
Having bottom-up training has been essential for me. My lecturer likened being a chef to building a puzzle: starting with education as the first corner pieces, then building on those foundations without ever missing a piece. This approach allows me to learn at each stage and build upon my experiences as I endure mistakes and challenges. I believe in the principle of never asking my team to do something that I wouldn’t be willing to do myself. It creates a realistic working environment – one that shows mutual respect.
‘From the moment you step through the revolving doors and are welcomed by the doorman, a sense of occasion begins.’
– Deepak Mallya
The Ritz is one of the world’s most globally recognised dining rooms. What's one thing about the kitchen that would surprise people – and why?
I think people are often surprised by just how many areas there are within the kitchen and how many different and intricate components go into creating our food offerings. The kitchen is divided into pastry, bakery, breakfast, butchery, bar, and room service sections, as well as the main kitchen. It’s quite difficult to visualise what nearly 70 chefs in operation looks like, so when you move from the calm, charming elegance of The Ritz Restaurant or Palm Court into the kitchen, it’s quite a surreal experience.
For someone dining at The Ritz for the first time, which dish would you recommend – and what makes it so special?
The Pigeon à la Presse. Few restaurants in the world can claim to have not only the specialised press required for the dish, but also the highly trained front-of-house team capable of executing the precision and theatre of its service. We use an exceptional quality pigeon from Brittany that is fed on ground chestnut flour and corn, which gives it a beautiful, sweet flavour. Not only is it a delicious plate of craftsmanship and theatre, but it creates lasting memories for the guest.
Afternoon tea at The Ritz is world renowned. What sets this quintessentially English tradition apart from other establishments in London?
From the moment you step through the revolving doors and are welcomed by the doorman, a sense of occasion begins. Seated in the elegant Palm Court, you begin with your first sip of tea, traditional sandwiches, and a selection of seasonal pastries and cakes. With a live pianist playing nostalgic melodies and views into the Long Gallery, afternoon tea is a truly special experience. It’s one of the most beautiful spaces in the hotel, and the service team takes great pride in making every guest feel welcome and perfectly cared for throughout.
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