Seven secret spots in Marrakech

The call to prayer flooded the valley, sweeping crows into the skies like scattered droplets. The sun – fiercely hot – splattered their shadows onto the scorched, ochre earth which crumbled down to a once-upon-a-time river basin some thousand feet below. ‘Asr,’ said our guide, by way of explanation, before pointing out the box-shaped building where he went to school. 

We’re in the Atlas Mountains, on the outskirts of Marrakech. A trek through these plaited hills is one of the more peaceful things to do in this part of Morocco, but it isn’t necessarily what first comes to mind when you think of the city’s souks, spices, and snake charmers. In fact, there are many secrets to be uncovered. Here, we select our favourite under-the-radar things to do, from art-filled secret gardens to concept stores curated by artists. 

Le Jardin Secret 

One of the best things about Marrakech is that there are so many tranquil spaces, quite literally, hidden behind closed doors. Case in point: Le Jardin Secret. In the 19th century, this courtyard garden was part of one of the largest riads in the medina, and – following a 2016 refurbishment – it’s now open to visitors. It’s an outstanding example of Islamic art and architecture, from its mosaic-tiled waterways to elegantly carved archways. Stay for a fresh juice in the lime-tree lined pagoda – although be warned that café service is minimal to none. 

lejardinsecretmarrakech.com

Jajjah by Hassan Hajjaj  

It’s tempting to stick to the time-sloughed streets of the Medina when you’re in Marrakech. But that would mean missing out on the city’s design district, Sidi Ghanem – and places like Jajjah by Hassan Hajjaj. It’s cross between a tea salon, concept store, and art gallery, with music constantly blaring and pieces by local artists plastered across the walls – which themselves are a colourful mix of Pop Art and traditional Moroccan design. Like the music? Scan the QR code on the menu to listen to the same playlist at home.   

ANIMA  

When it comes to gardens in Marrakech, Yves Saint Laurent’s Les Jardins Marjorelles always receives a lot of love, and even the Mars-like Cactus Thiemann has crept onto ‘must-visit’ lists lately. But if you want to beat the crowds, your own must-visit list includes ANIMA – a surrealistic wonderland created by Austrian artist André Heller. He’s not the only artist in the vicinity, either. Plotted amongst the palms and peonies are pieces by Picasso, Haring, Calder and Rodin, which you can take in over a takeaway tea whilst wandering the maze-like paths.   

anima-garden.com

Riad Yima  

Every artefact in this neon-bright tearoom was designed by Hassan Hajjaj, an artist often referred to as the Moroccan Andy Warhol (also behind the aforementioned Jajjah). To find it, follow the signs scrawled onto the spice market walls (hint: it’s near the ever-popular Nomad Café). Once inside, you’re met with a kaleidoscope of upcycled pop art, including photographs that have been displayed in galleries from New York to Paris. You might even bump into the artist himself, if he’s in residence. 

riyad-yima.com

Bacha Coffee  

Marrakech is a city of (mint) tea drinkers, but did you know it’s also home to some of the world’s best coffee? Bacha Coffee – one of the big bean brands – was founded in the city in 1910, and now has a palatial coffee café inside Dar el Bacha Palace. The 40-or-so shiny tins displayed behind the coffee counter invite you to pick your pour from practically any region in the world, but a word of warning if you want a flat white – it’s filter coffee only here.  

bachacoffee.com 

Trek the mountains 

The saw-toothed Atlas Mountains fringe practically every vista in Marrakech. Although you can soar over the peaks in a hot air balloon or whizz through them in a classic car, by far the best way to experience them is on foot with a Berber guide – they’re best placed to show you their personal favourite secret spots. Up here, it’s a slower pace of life, with the better treks taking you through waterfalls and up tagine-coloured hills, culminating in a mint tea and home-cooked meal at one of the Berber villages. 

L’mida Marrakech 

Marrakech’s it-crowd hit up Kabana at sunset, but make for L’mida – just off Jemaa El-Fna – to avoid the rush. Here, you’ll discover a trendy restaurant offering a modern take on Moroccan cuisine – the chicken skewers are particularly good – with desert-chic interiors that go heavy on the plants and rattan. Still, the main allure is its rooftop, allegedly the highest in Marrakech. Here, you’ll be enveloped in the sweet smell of fresh jasmine as you sit, mocktail in hand, and gaze at the city framed by the distant Atlas Mountains. Bliss.  

midamarrakech.com

Visit Africa’s largest cactus farm

When it comes to gardens in Marrakech, Les Jardins Marjorelles always receives a lot of love, but few venture to Cactus Thiemann, which was planted initially using succulents from Les Jardins. It’s a 17-acre nursery that rises from the desert like a Martian vegetable garden and happens to be Africa’s largest cactus farm. To get there, drive 20 minutes out of Marrakech until you see the handwritten sign reading “cacti” – an understatement, given that there are over 150 of the spiny plants here, with one stretching over 26 metres tall.