A panoramic view of Vienna at dusk features St. Stephens Cathedral prominently against a pastel sky. City lights begin to twinkle among rooftops, with distant hills silhouetted against the fading light.
Travel

A luxury 48 hours in Vienna

Grab your gloves and glühwein and get ready to wander Vienna at its wonderfully wintry best…

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Words by Dulcie Barnes

4-minute read

Giant bows on Baroque buildings, twinkling chandeliers floating over wide Straße, seasonal symphonies ringing out of churches. It must be Vienna in December – when winter wraps the Austrian capital in a festive fairytale glow. And 48 hours is all you need to experience the best of it (if you know where to look). So, grab your gloves and glühwein, and get ready to wander Vienna at its wonderfully wintry best. 

DAY ONE

High energy and heady heights 

Despite being the cool kid on the block, SO/ Vienna doesn’t compromise on quality. It’s sleek and stylish and soars above the city in an unapologetically imposing glass tower that’s in stark contrast to its neighbouring Baroque buildings. Book a SO/ Lofty suite for vast Viennese views, including an uninterrupted shot of St. Stephen's Cathedral. And, every morning, head up to Das LOFT for breakfast, where staff welcome you with sunglasses to shield you from the sunlight pouring in through the floor-to-ceiling windows.  

A modern, tall building with a reflective glass facade is shown against a clear blue sky. A vibrant digital display underneath a protruding section features colorful abstract art, visible from the street below. A modern, tall building with a reflective glass facade is shown against a clear blue sky. A vibrant digital display underneath a protruding section features colorful abstract art, visible from the street below.

Pinnacles, paintings, and palaces 

Even Vienna’s most iconic landmarks gain a little extra sparkle this season – whether it’s the soft dusting of snow on the gothic spires of St. Stephen’s Cathedral (climb the south tower for frosted city views) or the nativity scene that dwells under the dome frescoes at Karlskirche (take the lift for an up-close look). But few places wow quite as much as Schönbrunn Palace, where the Habsburgs’ opulent halls transport you to Austria’s imperial heyday and the scent of mulled wine from the market adds even more festive magic. Here, time slots sell out fast, so book in advance. 

A grand Baroque palace with illuminated windows at dusk, featuring a symmetrical facade and expansive paved courtyard. The sky is a gradient of purple and pink hues, creating a serene evening atmosphere. A grand Baroque palace with illuminated windows at dusk, featuring a symmetrical facade and expansive paved courtyard. The sky is a gradient of purple and pink hues, creating a serene evening atmosphere.

Symphonies, slippers, and sopranos 

Vienna’s classical music scene is the stuff of legends. And there’s one place in the Austrian capital that’s an octave above the rest: the Vienna State Opera. From Tchaikovsky’s festive ballet The Nutcracker to Verdi’s romantic opera La Traviata, its schedule of world-class ballets and operas is second to none. So, dress to impress, book a box, and allow yourself to be swept up in the musical magic. For a more intimate experience, head to Trompetenzauber im Advent at Annakirche, where angelic trumpets fill the chapel with festive cheer in the lead up to Christmas. 

A beautifully ornate opera house interior with a grand ceiling. The ceiling features a large, intricate chandelier and concentric circular patterns, surrounded by multiple tiers of balconies adorned with red and gold detailing. A beautifully ornate opera house interior with a grand ceiling. The ceiling features a large, intricate chandelier and concentric circular patterns, surrounded by multiple tiers of balconies adorned with red and gold detailing.

DAY TWO

Sachertortes and shopping

Vienna’s Goldenes Quartier is dripping with designer names – and December is when it shines brightest, with fairy-lit windows and festive flair. Don’t leave without picking up a piece or two. And when it’s time to escape the chill, where better to do it than at one of the city’s legendary coffeehouses? Café Sacher is the classic choice (order the legendary chocolate Sacher-torte with a silky Wiener melange). Or make for Café Central, where the marble-clad interior and melt-in-the-mouth pastries feel like a step back in time. 

A three-tiered chocolate cake with a glossy finish is displayed in a shop window, surrounded by red and gold packaging. The background shows blurred outdoor seating and people, indicating a bustling street scene. A three-tiered chocolate cake with a glossy finish is displayed in a shop window, surrounded by red and gold packaging. The background shows blurred outdoor seating and people, indicating a bustling street scene.

Advent and atmosphere 

In this city, Christmas markets are like stepping inside a carol. Whilst the big hitters (like Rathausplatz) often steal the show with their bright neon lights, impressive installations, and fairground rides, we prefer those with a little more soul. Take Art Advent, for example. Here, you’ll find fairy-lit stalls selling sustainable, handcrafted souvenirs and steaming mugs of glühwein beneath the beautifully Baroque Karlskirche. For a sky-high, stylish spin on a Christmas market, make for Atmosphere Rooftop Bar at The Ritz-Carlton, where spiced winter cocktails, cosy blankets, melt-in-your-mouth raclette, heated gondolas, and a twinkling skyline await.  

A bustling Christmas market at dusk in front of a grand, historic building with a green dome. The stalls are lit up with festive lights, and a large illuminated arch marks the entrance. Crowds of people enjoy the holiday atmosphere. A bustling Christmas market at dusk in front of a grand, historic building with a green dome. The stalls are lit up with festive lights, and a large illuminated arch marks the entrance. Crowds of people enjoy the holiday atmosphere.

Cocktails, cod, and cathedral views 

For cocktails with clout, slip into Kleinod Prunkstück – a bar near Stephansplatz with a sultry speakeasy vibe. Come for the velvet chairs, gilded accents, and giant chandeliers. Stay for the martini – it has a twist worth toasting. Then, stroll the short distance to DO & CO Hotel and ascend to its sixth floor, where you’ll find ONYX – a Michelin-recommended restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows that bring you face to face with St. Stephen’s Cathedral façade. Snag a table by the glass and savour the miso black cod (a diner-favourite dish). 

A close-up of sushi rolls topped with sliced avocado and orange fish roe, being held with chopsticks. The plate includes assorted sushi, garnishes, and pickled ginger, on a bamboo mat and ice. A close-up of sushi rolls topped with sliced avocado and orange fish roe, being held with chopsticks. The plate includes assorted sushi, garnishes, and pickled ginger, on a bamboo mat and ice.
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